Friday July 15, 2016

Today, we set off once again for a bit of motoring around a new country. But first a very civilized breakfast at Buswell's. Check out and head out by cab to Hertz. Best price was through AAA. Initially I booked a small SUV but none were available so they gave us a sporty red Audi A4. Automatic. Diesel for better mileage. Steering wheel on right side of car. After about 3 or 4 in/outs I stopped going to the wrong side of the car to get in. Same for looking to the right for oncoming traffic as I make a left turn into the left lane. I think I drove on the wrong side a couple of times but unlike the first time I drove in England at least I was able to get out of the first traffic circle on the first try - "look right go left". I was forewarned about narrow roads and close calls so I went for the full insurance bundle (tires and wheels not covered). Hoping I won't need it. 

   In a blink of an eye we were on our way. First stop, Kilkenny castle. But first, I needed to get onto the highway. No problems merging. Toll was paid automatically. We were really on our way once we were zooming at 120. That's 120 km/hr or 72 mph (multiply km/hr by 0.6 to get mph). The car handled it well. The passengers had other thoughts.

    The castle is located Kilkenny, a medieval town and the castle was built in 1195 or so by Norman invaders. A family known as the Butlers took over in 1381 and retained control until they finally dumped it for 50 pounds in 1967. It has been restored to its state of existence in the Victorian era. It was very interesting but if you've seen one castle you have seen them all. 

     Before leaving Kilkenny we walked briefly in the old part of town and randomly chose a restaurant down a quiet medieval passageway, Petronella. The food was very good.  As we were paying our bill the chatty proprietor shared with us that James Joyce lived in the building for two months. In Ireland, this is the equivalent of "Washington slept here". 

    Back in the car? Back on the wrong side of the road heading for the Brook Lane Hotel in Kenmare. From Kilkenny to Kenmare i begsn to comprehend what was meant when i was told at home the roads in Irrland are narrow and the bushes grow into them. the speed limit frequently topped off at 100 km/hr (100 x 0.6 = 60 mph) on narrow two lane roads. They are bumpy and twisty and 100 is way too fast for them. even at slower speeds it takes full concentration. I must say however I quickly became pretty good at wrong side of the road driving. Except with big buses or 18 wheelers barreling towards me at 100 km/hr. around blind curves. On cliffs. But we made it to Kenmare safely. We walked from our very nice accommodations at The Brook Lane Hotel to dinner a few blocks away.  We were once again treated to live music by a solo act. Dinner was a treat for Alex and Adrian - pizza. It is amazing though how fresh the fish is every day and how abundant salmon and cod are. You could easily have it every day tasting as fresh as if it was just caught. Smoked salmon is a staple of breakfast in Ireland, as it was in Iceland. And the smoking is all done locally. More on that another day.

  The Brook Lane Hotel deserves a few lines here. It was a top notch place. Not listed in our Rick Steve's guide but easily one of our favorite stays. Clean, friendly, convenient. Great breakfast spread included but we were in too much of a hurry to beat the monstrous tour buses out to The Ring of Kerry to enjoy the hot offerings also included. Next time. Another full day. Will sleep well tonight.